Interlacing linen: types of fabrics

Our grandmothers and great-grandmothers sewed their wardrobealone, and much could tell us about a variety of tissues. They already knew what kind of fabric it was better to make a dress or blouse. Most of the ladies at that time excellently coped with the production of home textiles: bed sets, curtains and tablecloths. They not only perfectly sewed all these household items, but also decorated it with embroidery and other ornaments.

Mass hobby for sewing remains in the past. Now this occupation can be classified as a hobby - you will not meet it often. Very few women can tell what kind of fabric is in their hands.

The textile industry amazes modernfashionistas an abundance of novelties. Fabrics become high-tech and multifunctional. However, they are based, as a rule, on schemes and techniques developed a century ago.

What is a plain weave?

Interlacing linen refers to the main typesschemes of a combination of fibers. It is with the help of this textile technique that a large number of names of fabrics from various natural and synthetic fibers are produced. Other types of interlacing are obtained by various variations or combinations of their basic types.

From the nature of the interweaving depends not onlyappearance of the fabric, but also its mechanical, physical and technological characteristics. In order to understand the issue of tissue formation, first let's look at the basic textile concepts.

Basic textile concepts

Longitudinal threads are called the base, and the transverse threads are called the duck. In the fabric structure, they intertwine and form an overlap, denoted in the weaving diagrams by the symbol n_F. The main intersection of n_FO called the place on the front of the fabric, in which the fibers of the base are located above the duck. In the weft overlap n_F_Ythe opposite picture is observed. Here the warp threads lie under the weft threads.

Interlacing in the textile business is customaryTo designate in the form of a scheme, which is represented in two colors. In the vertical rows are the warp threads, and the horizontal ones are the weft threads. They are arranged in a certain order and form one or another type of crossing. Dark-colored cells are usually designated as the main overlapping, and light ones are the wefts.

In the analysis of the scheme there is a certain order. The warp threads are counted from left to right, and the weft threads are from the bottom up. In the compilation and reading of schemes use the concept of rapport R. This denotes the number of overlaps of the fibers of the weft and the base, which alternate with a certain interval. Rapports make fabric production simple and straightforward. There are rapports of weave on the warp threads of R_o and the weft R_Y.

Also in the drafting of weaving schemes there is the notion of shift S. This term denotes the number of threads on which a single overlap is removed from a similar one. There is a vertical shift S_o by basis and S_Y by the duck.

How is a plain weave made?

Linen weave, the scheme of which ismost simple, is characterized in such a way that the threads of the weft and the base cross each other in every second consecutive overlap. This means that it has the smallest possible rapport.

Therefore, it is believed that the plain weave of yarns is the primary source of all modifications of weaving patterns. It is according to these rules that the first materials were made by our ancestors.

There is a certain rapport, which characterizes the linen weave. Its scheme is described in the form of formulas:

R_O = R_Y = 2 threads;
n_FO = n_FY = 1;
S_O = S_Y = 1.

Cloth weave, in which the threadthe base has a much smaller thickness in relation to a similar indicator of a duck, is called a false rep. In this case, a transverse hem is formed. Specialists refer to it as a kind of weave, called weft reps. For this type of weaving weave forms such fabrics as cotton taffeta and poplin. Simple linen weave is the basis for creating a variety of textile products based on a variety of natural raw materials: cotton, flax, silk, wool and other fiber sources.

Cotton fabrics

Cotton fabric, in which the interweaving linen, is very widely used in the textile industry. There are several types of such textiles, which are discussed in more detail below.

Calico

It is also referred to as burbot or paper canvas. This fabric can be produced in the form of a rough, unfinished fabric, it can also be bleached (linen), smooth-colored or printed. In the composition of coarse calico, both cotton threads and artificial fibers can be present.

Canvas fabric is used in moderntextile industry in the manufacture of bed linen. Coarse calico has good wear resistance, can withstand a large number of washings. Canvas fabric has many advantages:

Excellent hygienic qualities.
Hypoallergenicity.
Ecological compatibility.
Ease.
Low rate of crushing.
Long-lasting preservation of the brightness of the picture.
Affordable price.

It is these qualities that make daily and luxury sets of bed linen of high quality possible from coarse calico.

Chintz

Refers to lightweight cotton fabrics andit can be smoothly printed or printed. The calico is made from the calico by means of dyeing and finishing manipulations. Usually the density of this tissue is 80-100 g / m². Chintz is used in the textile industry for making bed linen, shirts for men, and for light outerwear.

Batiste

This fabric is very delicate andtransparency. The raw material for the production of batiste is cotton, as well as linen. This cloth weave is made of the finest twisted fiber of high numbers. Baptiste is smooth, bleached, mercerized and stuffed. Usually this material is used for sewing underwear, light dresses or blouses. Also, the batiste is a semi-finished product for the production of tracing paper.

Calico

This harsh cotton cloth of linenThe interlacing consists of their coarse unbleached fibers. Most often the mitkal has a grayish shade. It serves as a semi-finished product for making other fabrics and materials. If the calf was processed in the necessary way, then it is possible to obtain linen products (muslin, madapolam) or chintz. Also from this raw material are obtained various oilcloths and dermatine.

Flannel

This kind of fabric can be made as theircotton, either from wool or from their combination. Flannel has a rare two-sided or one-sided fluffy fleece and therefore it is good to save heat. It is soft and pleasant to the touch, it can be bleached, smoothly printed or printed.

Flannel has its drawbacks: it rolls down with a long toe and, due to its high hygroscopicity, dries long. This fabric is excellent for demi-season clothing and for baby diapers.

Poplin

This kind of fabric is two-sided,monochrome or patterned. Poplin forms an interweaving linen from a thin base and a coarser rare transverse weft. As a result, a small hem is obtained, which is characterized by a high basis density, which is 1.5-2 times higher than that of the duck. Poplin can be bleached, printed, multicolored or smooth-colored. It has many advantages:

Keeps the shape well.
Its surface is pleasant to the touch.
Thermostatic and hygroscopic.
High wear resistance.
Affordable price.

Due to such qualities poplin is widely used for creating bed linen, as well as for men's and women's shirts, towels and other products.

Taffeta

This fabric, which uses a weavelinen, is thin, dense and has a glossy surface. Taffeta is made from tightly twisted fibers, and not only cotton, but also silk, as well as synthetic yarns are used. Traditionally, this kind of fabric is used for sewing evening and wedding toilets, suits for rhythmic gymnastics and various consumer goods.

Linen fabrics

Flax - the fabric is rather firm and dense. It has a smooth surface and a matte finish. Cloth from linen does not stretch well, especially in moistened form, its fibers intertwine with each other badly.

This material is not very dirty, does not formpile and is characterized by great hygroscopicity. Flax is a fabric that perfectly supports the natural heat transfer of a person's body and is therefore very suitable for making clothes. In the textile industry several types of fabrics made of this material are made by the method of linen weaving:

Bortovka - dense fabric, designed for the manufacture of padding elements of outerwear.
The sail is a heavy fabric of thick linen thread,characterized by a special density. It repels moisture and is distinguished by increased wear resistance. It was used to create sails, as well as for sewing water-repellent and specialized clothing. If this fabric is impregnated with a fire-resistant, water-repellent and antifungal composition, then a canvas will be obtained.
Cloth is a smooth linen fabric that has a shiny surface and is used for making dresses and suits.

Silk fabrics

Silk - the material is very expensive and delicate. It has long been used to sew toilets of notable persons. Later with the invention of artificial silk, clothing from this material became available to everyone. When fabric is made of natural and synthetic silk thread, we use a plain weave type. In this way, a variety of crepes are produced in this way.

This type of fabric is made of fibers withhigh twist in the left and right direction with a certain alternation. This processing of threads gives them elasticity and ensures an increased shrinkage of the material. The fabric acquires a shallow-rough structure.

The main advantage of fortified fabrics is their excellentDrapeability combined with a slight crease, which makes them ideal for making evening toilets for women and men. Silk weave cloth is the following types:

Krepdeshin differs moderate shine. It is relatively thin, but dense enough. Krepdeshin is made of silk fibers in the base, and as a weft, threads of crooked twisting are used. Woolen and polyester fibers can also be used in the fabric. Krepdeshin is widely used for sewing evening and wedding sets.
Crepe chiffon - airy thin translucentcloth, which has a pronounced relief structure. Can contain both pure silk and synthetic threads. Crepe-chiffon is used for making summer clothes and accessories.
Crepe-georget is distinguished not only by its subtlety and transparency, but also by its elasticity. Texture of the tissue is pronounced. Crepe-georgette is used for sewing light toilets, scarves and scarves.
Crep-marken distinguished by the presence of a strong threadtwisting at the base. It has a pronounced relief structure and is made of yarns of natural silk, viscose, and also wool. The crepe-marken is mainly used for sewing costumes.

Fabrics made of wool

Woolen threads are also exposed to lineninterlacing with the formation of certain types of fabrics, the main of which is cloth. This fabric is notable for the fact that on its surface the filaments are so knocked down and twisted that all the gaps between the fibers overlap.

Thus, the fabric becomes like felt. Woolen cloth can be of two types:

The army is manufactured with strict observance of technology and is used to create clothes for the military, as well as for some special clothing.
The city has some differences in technology. It is softer and finer, has a large color variety.

The cloth is well spread and does not shift when cutting, does not strew on the slices, it can withstand ironing well. However, this material rushes during use, can shrink and can not withstand washing.

As you can see, the weave weave of threads in the fabricgave birth to a huge variety of unique and unique materials that modern housewives use for making clothes, bed linen and other household items. Years pass, ages change, but many of the foundations laid down by our ancestors, and to this day do not lose their relevance.

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